SOUTH OF FRANCE

8 min read

My Journey started by departing Perth Saturday September 7 arriving Nice International airport at 1:40pm on Sunday.

I Checked into Vieux Nice, on Rue Barilierie situated in the Old Nice quarters arriving around 4:00pm. This is only 150 metres to the beach but it is a walking area only. Arriving by taxi in the rain, my introduction was to get wet walking to and working out how to access the apartment. WhatsApp to the owner Luc with photos lead me to a nearby bakery who had the key. On entrance my apartment is on the 5th floor – no elevator. Packing light has its advantages.

By this stage I was pretty exhausted s no sleep during the flights so I took a couple of hours to relax watching a Netflix movie. After a shower I headed out into the old town, the rain had stopped and the vibrancy of this city was on full display. Restaurants cafes and bars dominated the area with all service staff speaking excellent English. I went to a couple of different bars, the Wakabar had live music with a lot of singalong from the crowd and an Irish bar served a good Guinness. I walked along the promenade overlooking the beaches which were all pebbles not sand that we are used to. I eventually selected a restaurant and ordered a Niçoise salad with a glass of Chablis which got me to 9:00pm, then off to bed.

Monday September 9 my first full day in Nice. The photo above left is the same promenade where a terrorist, using his lorry as a weapon, mowed down hundreds of people who were celebrating Bastille Day in 2016. The death toll reached 84, with many more suffering life threatening injuries.

The earliest cafe opened at 7:30am with most opening 8:00am or later which is a little late for me but I survived.

After breakfast I set out to walk up Castle Hill. Like many European cities, protection against invaders was prominent in the design of their towns. This results in spectacular views of the city of Nice and the Mediterranean ocean.

Walking through the old town you can imagine life before modern transport. Alley ways and paving are dotted with churches, cafes and shops. Below is Umbrella street and the local church.

after lunch, a baguette with cheese washed down with a beer, I set out to walk the promenade. Shirt off, enjoying sun on my body as it was heading towards 30 degrees. Thousands of tourists were sun-baking, swimming or walking like me. It is about 7 kms to walk the bay and I marvelled at the architecture of buildings that faced the beach, all adding to a stunning walk. I stopped at Cocoon’s, one of the many cafes on the beach for a drink and a rest before heading back to my apartment for a break.

By now I had walked my 20 000 steps so ready for a rest to get a little stamina for the evening.
at 7:00 pm I stooped at a cafe bar 50 metres from home, got a table in the sun drank a few beers and ordered a pizza. My next door table neighbours were London flatmates, both lawyers, enjoying Nice for the first time. After they left I enjoyed a couple of wines at a small wine bar in my alley then headed off for the night.

Tuesday 10th could not get a coffee until 8:00am but eventually settled into Bozzi’s drinking espresso, updating this blog and enjoyed a croissant.

Quiet morning followed by a seafood lunch with 500ml bottle of Chablis. The restaurant scenery is magnificent in Nice and this cafe was no exception with sea views peaking through the umbrellas. When in France it’s a must at some time to order a crème brûlée. I was taken aback by the size of it, which I am told is due to the strong Italian influence on the hospitality sector in the Mediterranean. I managed a little over half.

As the afternoon wore on my cold and flu symptoms returned so off to the chemist for cough mixture and the French equivalent of Codral day and night tablets. I rested in the afternoon before heading out for a light meal and a Guinness or three.

Wednesday with temperatures above 30 degrees I collected my Ford Puma from Avis. Great service as I skied if I could keep the car an extra 8 hours. Since it was not booked elsewhere no problems and no extra cost.
Getting used to a manual again, driving on the right and guided by google I set off with intentions to explore Antibes and Cannes on the way. I wasted at least 2 hours driving around each city but no parking anywhere so I gave up and headed into St Tropez. Google kept taking me up streets that were either too narrow to navigate or dead ends. I decided to park at Des Lices first then walk for 15 minutes with my backpack. What the tree day parking bill will be I have no idea.

A beautiful apartment with all top shelf appliances and easy to follow instructions on how access.

After settling in I wandered the harbour. 100 foot boats everywhere plus the Ferrari suggests. Little bit of money around this town.

I have found the one thing that is cheaper than in Perth – good Cheese. Roquefort blue around $60 per kg. This forced my lunch hand so blue cheese aged pecorino and a baguette were purchased with a bottle of local Chablis. Provence predominantly produces white and rose so not a lot of red wine is drunk, especially for lunch meals. My meal last night was a bit different.

Today was a wandering around day. It is a beautiful city with all streets paved and very narrow. Exclusive shopping, art and antique galleries dot the city but with many more restaurants and bars. Walking along the port where the mega yachts are moored I was stopped by a stunning Scandinavian woman with an equally attractive friend both around 40. “Excuse me” she said “do you have a boat”. My reply was “do I look wealthy”. She laughed and said they wanted to go out on the bay on a boat. Back to wandering; this place reminds me of Venice with its narrow roads and alley ways. Easy to get lost. Google maps essential but due to many 3 story homes it sometimes is difficult to follow the maps, but without the app I might still be looking for my apartment.

My last day in St Tropez discovering the Citadelle de Saint-Tropez which is as expected a high point overlooking the ocean. this is currently under a restoration program but visitors can walk around the outside of the walls. Looking down creates not only a brilliant view but the cemetery is located directly below this and off to one side expensive housing. This is Friday 13 and so far it’s been fine, not that I am superstitious.

Saturday 14 planning my departure from Saint-Tropez for 10:00am hoping to arrive in Monaco for 12:30pm. according to my research, parking seems to be ok so I will stay for lunch, wander around before I hed to Nice for a 5:30 drop off for the hire car with my flight due to depart at 9:10pm.

Great plans but reality struck. Google maps can be brilliant but constantly giving a direction with the street name in a foreign language is confusing. Directions often given hundreds of metres out and not distinguishing between left, slip road left,which of the three lefts to take. Roundabouts fine. The result an extra hour on the journey. I arrived Monaco around 1:30 with easy parking. Great wealth on display – Ferraris everywhere. Built into a huge hill the views are spectacular.

I think the port can hold even larger yachts than Saint-Tropez. The Monaco Grand Prix is highlighted in many places.

My drive back to Nice was uneventful passing by this cube outa of the blue as I entered Nice. When I arrived to return my car Avis was closed. The initial service person and I must have not clearly understood each other. After contacting all possible after hours numbers I gave up and drove the car to the airport Avis return centre. There they found a minute scratch which was not marked on the documentation. A bill for 300 Euro will be in the mail. So Intake back all the nice things I said about Avis. To top this off my flight to Naples was delayed departing and hour late.

Goodbye to the South of France, at least I have been there.

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